Everest Base Camp, Kala Patthar and ‘Nimsdai’s ‘Elite Exped’
Joining the team for a trek to Everest Base Camp and Kala Patthar with ‘Nimsdai’s’ ‘Elite Exped’ was a privilege and nothing short of an exhilarating experience.
I have finally found the time to download (both mentally and pictorially – there were A LOT of photos!), and I’m excited to now share my story of this once-in-a-lifetime trip with you.
Preparation and Departure
On April 10th, 2024, I embarked on the adventure of a lifetime, leaving London for Kathmandu. After final checks, a briefing from our Sherpa guides, and a visit to the ‘Lord of The Drinks’ nightclub (of course!), we were ready to begin.
Our kit allowance was strict: a 10kg duffel bag for overnight gear and a 5kg daysack for daily needs. Safety was paramount; we were warned to avoid the frequent yak convoys, refrain from eating meat and always listen to the advice given by our Sherpas during the trek.
The Journey Begins
After a five-hour drive from Kathmandu to Ramechhap, we flew to Lukla, known for its treacherous runway and one of the most dangerous airports in the world. A mountain rock face at one end of the runway and a cliff edge at the other! That was an experience in itself!
From there, we embarked on our 12-day, 80-mile trek. Let’s do this! 💪🏼
Day One
Our first day began with a gentle downhill walk to Phakding, settling us into a routine which would continue throughout the trip and giving us a glimpse of the local culture. We learned that everything that reached this region had been transported by humans, mules or yak, which is incredible. It also became even more impressive the higher we would reach and the things we would find situated on the mountain.
We entered into a routine that we would quickly become accustomed to as we continued throughout the trip: arrive at a lodge mid-afternoon, followed by our arrival drink, a cocktail of lemon juice, ginger, honey and hot water. This herbal remedy is very thirst-quenching and very good for preventing altitude sickness.
After ordering our food for the evening, most of the group would then go off for an afternoon nap, while I would go for a walk to check out the local environment and also make sure I would be tired enough to sleep that night. I had been warned that the higher you go, the more difficult sleeping would become. I would then return to the lodge and shower, change and meet everyone for supper.
We would be allocated a table in the restaurant for the ‘Elite Exped’ team and be served dinner by our guides, which is part of the sherpa/guide culture.
This was when we really started to get to know our guides, Krish Taming, Tsering Sherpa, Rinjin Sherpa and the very cool head guide, MingMa Guava Sherpa, pictured here.
It would be then that they would carry out the medical checks making sure our heart rate and oxygen levels were within the limits and it was safe to continue.
Day Two
On day two, we underwent a challenging eight-hour trek, crossing several bridges, including the spectacular Hillary Bridge, the highest and most exhilarating of all the suspension bridges on the trek. Not for the faint-hearted!
Named after the first person to climb Mount Everest, which was, of course, Sir Edmund Hillary, the bridge is 135 metres high and spans 60 metres in length.
And so, we reached Namche Bazaar, the unofficial capital of the Sherpa people, and it was fascinating to see such a tourist-centred place with over 50 hotels and lodges 3,400 metres above sea level!
It was here that our group started to feel the inevitable effects of altitude, and our stops became more frequent so we could soothe the symptoms – breathlessness, nausea, headaches and even worse for some.
Day Three
Our third day was an acclimatisation trek in which we steadily climbed 900m, taking 7 hours.
We visited the Everest View Hotel (the highest hotel in the world), Khumjung Monastery and the ‘Sagamartha Next’ design museum.
We learned a lot about the local culture and how designers create brilliant products to sell, made from the littering that has taken place over decades of tourists visiting Everest.
We also visited Khunde and were given a special guided tour of the monastery, learning about Buddhism, the daily lives of the monks, and not to mention the infamous skull of a Yeti!!
We enjoyed another great lunch in the Khunde village, followed by a game of volleyball in the centre of the village with some of the local kids. Fortunately, we held our own even though we were struggling for breath; it certainly helped with the acclimatisation process!
Day Four
On the fourth day, we trekked from Namche to Deboche, soaking up the stunning mountain scenery, including our first sight of Ama Dablam.
Day Five
The following day was a much easier walk that took us through a beautiful forest walk out of Deboche. After stopping for a lovely lunch hosted by one of our guides’ parents, the cloud base started to drop, and the weather closed in with mist, rain, and some light snow. It was probably the worst weather we had encountered in the entire time. However, from reading and hearing other trekkers’ accounts, I know that we were very lucky weather-wise for the duration of our trip.
Day Six
On day six, we undertook another acclimatisation walk to Nagarjung Hill, reaching an incredible 5,100m.
It was a tough trek, and every breath was laboured, but we were treated to breathtaking views in return for our efforts.
In our three-hour ascend (and 90-minute descent for acclimatisation), we sighted Ama Dablam, Makalu, Island Peak, Lhotse and Thamserku and I was fortunate to snap some GREAT photos! 📸
One Week In…
In no time at all, we reached day seven: we had been trekking for a whole week.
We departed Dingboche and headed on a short uphill stretch followed by a steep climb via Thukla Memorial Pass and onto Lobuche. The memorial was definitely a moment – the cairns, flags and stone structures representing all those who had lost their lives on Everest were humbling and saddening.
Day Eight
The eighth day was our longest day, but a significant one.
We woke early to a snowy landscape, which was exciting because it reflected the images I’d seen when researching an EBC trip before departure.
We felt close to our destination and the excitement was palpable.
As we neared Everest Base Camp, the landscape shifted and transformed into something reminiscent of a moon landing; it was cold and barren but with bright blue skies behind us.
We knew we were close and trudged on…
Reaching Our Goal
And then, at last, after over a week of uphill trekking, acclimatisation and unbelievable experiences – we arrived at the Everest Base Camp sign, signalling we had reached a mighty 5,364 metres! 🗻🙌🏼
We were more than ready for our obligatory photo and that fantastic sense of achievement. We’d done it!
But my story doesn’t finish there!
Being part of an ‘Elite Exped’ trek, we were treated to some fantastically unique experiences from start to finish. And as I sit back and reflect, reaching Everest Base Camp was only the beginning of my once-in-a-lifetime experience.
As part of a special ‘Elite Exped’ trek, we were then very privileged to be invited one step further than most. We had the opportunity to join NimsDai for lunch with some of his Everest Summiteers in the ‘Elite Exped’ camp, right in the centre of Everest Base Camp at 5,364m.
We also had the opportunity to step onto the infamous Khumbu Ice Fall/Glacier, the first obstacle that Everest summiteers will encounter.
It was then the long slog back to Garokshep. A distance of only 3.5km but with the altitude, low oxygen, low temperatures and a rocky terrain every step seemed 100 times harder than walking back when I was training on the Pennines!
Day Nine
The ninth day of our trek marked the beginning of our return trip, a safe descent back to our starting point in Lukla.
However! I’d been offered an opportunity to witness something magical. A sunrise like no other.
The day after reaching EBC at 5364m, MingMa Sherpa and I left our lodge on a mission at 04:15. Knowing it wasn’t an easy journey, the others in our group weren’t interested or able to. But, despite being the oldest out of all of us, I wasn’t going to turn this down. This was an opportunity I’d never have again, and there was no way I’d let this pass me by!
I was wrapped up well in my thick down jacket, merino long johns and every bit of kit I could muster to keep warm, prepared for temperatures that were predicted to dip to -10℃. Even the water in my water bottle froze!
And so, we began the challenging journey to Kala Patthar…
The distance is less than a mile, but my ability was hugely impacted by the steep incline, the additional altitude gain and – vitally – the shortage of oxygen.
This, without question, was the toughest journey of them all. And we didn’t have time to waste. I wasn’t going to miss this once-in-a-lifetime moment to make it to the summit before the sun rose, so I gave it everything I had.
Every step was a huge effort, and we stopped and rested far more than I had on any of the previous treks. However, we persevered and arrived with 25 minutes to spare.
This allowed me enough time to sit and contemplate what a unique privilege this was: sitting and looking at the highest mountain in the world.
Elevation-wise, we sat at 5632m, which was now officially the highest I had ever been!
MingMa Sherpa and I sat and patiently waited. He was definitely the coolest guide on the planet; he was never flustered and always smiling. Such an inspiration to be around.
Then it happened.
The sun crept up, peeping over Everest until it rose in all of its full glory.
It felt immensely special, truly magical, even slightly emotional.
It was a moment I will remember and treasure forever.
After that beautiful sunrise, it was straight back down to our lodge to rejoin the others for breakfast and preparation for the descent to Pheriche. This journey was a steady 9.5km downhill and a descent of over 1,261m from Karla Patthar in just six hours, reaching 4,371m. The whole group felt each step become easier now we were moving downhill.
Later that evening, during dinner at The Edelweiss Hotel in Pheriche, I realised Kenton Cool was seated at the next table. Cool is the UK’s top Everest summiteer and he was en-route to summit Everest for the 18th time. We have a mutual friend and so, I took the opportunity to head over and introduce myself. Not only is he an inspirational person, Cool was really friendly and we had a great chat. Of course, we had to have the obligatory celeb selfie ……Kenton insisted! 😉
Day Ten
The following day, we covered over 16km with a descent of over 931m / 3,054ft in just over seven hours, reaching Namche Bazaar. It was much easier this time, with more intervals to engage with the spectacular scenery.
After arriving in Namche, I was more than ready for a lovely warm shower. But there was also a spot I was keen to reach…. The Irish bar!
Yes, of course, there is an Irish bar there. Unfortunately, they didn’t stock Guinness, but I really appreciated – and devoured – a glass of the local ‘Gorkha Strong’. And perhaps a few more…
Day Eleven
On our eleventh day, we departed Namche ready to head back to our starting point in Lukla. Upon leaving Namche, we each wanted to show support for the ‘Sagamartha National Park’, with their waste removal scheme.
We carried a 1kg ‘Carry Me Back’ bag in our bid to help remove the massive amount of waste /rubbish that has been building up since the tourists started arriving in 1953.
This part of the journey proved to be a rather tough 16km and took over 6 hours to complete. But once again, we were spoilt with stunning views and the unique opportunity to peer into the lives, traditions and culture of such an incredible part of the world.
On our final day, we flew back to Kathmandu, ending our adventure perfectly with a group dinner at MingMa David Sherpa’s restaurant – and a few more drinks, of course! And I finally found a silky smooth Guinness to celebrate the trip 😃
It was then time to say our goodbyes to each member of the group. We had shared an unforgettable experience together, the adventure of a lifetime and memories we’ll all treasure forever.
Thank you for reading. It’s an honour to share my story with you.
All the best,
Jem
